Having been asked to contribute something of my experience on the above topic, I feel that the fitting of show sheep covers only a very brief part in the work and expense of really fitting a winning flock. In the first place I do not like the sound of the phrase, "Fitting Show Sheep". It too often suggests that sheep only need to be fitted to make show sheep; while, on the other hand, had I been asked to write on "Breeding and Fitting Show Sheep" I could have covered the situation more fully. There are two distinct types of people who show sheep at our fairs. One buys good sheep and fits them, and the other breeds and fits his own sheep. The latter type, if successful, is one of the greatest assets to our industry and country.

If a man is a good feeder and buys really good sheep from a good breeder, regardless of the highest honor he may win with those sheep in the ring, if the man who really bred those sheep comes along show day and remarks that "he is the man who bred those sheep" he has stolen the whole show, for, after all, feed alone can never make a good sheep. But if you have a few good sheep, a little feed and care will naturally make them more attractive, and a few minutes with a pail of warm water, a little soap, brush, curry comb, wool cards, and sharp shears will work wonders. Many people are good breeders and feeders, but the trimming of sheep for exhibition is really an art or a profession, and not everyone is blessed with the natural talent to make a success of this line of work. This work may be compared with a sign painter, or a fine carpenter who specializes in scroll work. He must have an impression in his mind before he starts as to what the finished product will or should look like when completed.

Different types of fleece require different methods, and only the best tools are to be used if a good effect is to be accomplished. This applies to shears especially. There are very few shears on the market for the special purpose of trimming sheep. The best shears to use are the ones which you can do the best work with and are in the habit of using.

Sheep intended for exhibition should be a true example of the breed, and well developed as lambs. They should be shorn about the middle of February for showing in September, and should be shorn close. The practice of stubble shearing and leaving wool on the heads, legs, belly and various other places to cover up defects only gets a person into a lot of trouble, and the sheep are likely to shed this old wool just at the time when you need it most. Select good sheep and they will not require any extra covering in certain spots.

Some people prefer to keep their sheep in the barn on dry feed twelve months of the year, and never dip them. This is all wrong. They may look all right for the show ring, but are not worth a nickel for what they are intended to be. I prefer to keep my show sheep as near the natural conditions as possible, and I find that good yearling ewes can be bred and raise lambs and still be in shape to show the following year, if raised properly from birth. Sheep that are pampered are the greatest detriment to the industry, and most prove a very expensive advertising medium to the owner. Shear your lambs earl yin July if you want good yearlings, and give them pasture free from worms. Any that do not develop under this treatment, sell to the butcher. Those that are left will look more uniform and make better breeders of show sheep, or whatever duty they may be called upon to preform.

After the show flock comes out of winter quarters it should have the run of good pasture with little or no grain until the first of June. Rams should have a little grain, but they should have a chance to cool out well and work up some muscle before starting to fit. About June 1 they should be brought in and blocked out. This may be done by taking your shearing machine, wide head preferred, and run it from their rump to the shoulder, as straight and level as possible. Now run the clippers from this mark off to the sides in short strokes, and with a little practice, you can make a good job cutting down the back. The next operation, which is trimming the tail square and flattening the hind quarters to make them look wide and deep. You now have the sheep ready for the dipping tank. After dipping, and being allowed to dry, preferably in the sun and air, take your water and brush and give them a god brushing, keeping the fleece damp but not too wet. Then take the curry comb and give them a good combing. Next, use the wool card 'til you have the fleece well worked out. Now you are ready for the shears and smooth them all over. This operation, if done at the proper time, saves you a lot of labor in the future. At intervals of three weeks or a month, you might repeat this operation, but use the card sparingly as it will make the fleece too soft when it should appear dense.

The set of cards which Howard Brush puts out are really the most efficient and handiest tools on the market for putting a fleece in shape for the show ring.

They are used as follows: After the fleece has been dampened and brushed with a stiff brush, with warm water and some soft soap, take the straight tooth card and rake the wool all over to break up all the knots caused by grease in the fleece, and this also loosens all the dirt and foreign matter in the wool, then use the card which is made for a light open fleece, or dense fleece whichever the case may require, and pick it up by tapping the fleece gently and working the card with a rocking motion 'til the wool stands out all over the body.

After the fleece has been thoroughly worked up, take a sharp pair of shears and smooth the fleece off even. Places which are hard to get at with a large card can be worked out later with the small care used for the head and legs. The fore flank and twist are two important places which can be worked out with this small card.

After the rough has been cut off, or the sheep gone over once with the shears, it is well to again brush the fleece lightly, and rub briskly with a woolen cloth to take out all the dirt possible, after this operation the fleece will be almost dry, and a little sweet oil applied with the hands and worked in with the finishing card will give the fleece a good "touch". You can then run over the fleece again with the shears, removing any wool which might have been pulled up in the last operation.

The cards should be kept clean at all times to do the best work, and this may be done with the special tool for this purpose.

After the sheep have been dipped and once dry they should never be allowed to get out in the rain or to otherwise get wet, and should be kept in a clean, cool barn or shed during the day, with the windows screened to prevent annoyance from flies.

They should be fed a light grain ration twice daily and have all the good alfalfa or clover that they will clean up. Too much grain is worse than not enough. Good hay is essential at all times. The sheep should be fed so that most of the gains are made during June and July, and they should be allowed access to a good field of clover or rape, or other good pasture at night when the weather is dry, as this gives them exercise which is necessary to put on healthy firm flesh, and laying on the natural earth cools them. Keep your sheep healthy, and active at all times in preference to an over-fat, sluggish appearance.

When the weather gets hot, around August first, you can reduce the grain ration and feed all the green feed you can get them to eat during the day. During the last three weeks previous to starting on the show circuit, they should have their final trimming, and their backs may need cutting down again. This may be done as in the first operation. After the final touch, light blankets may be put on to keep the sheep clean and prevent disturbing the fleece. The sheep should now be accustomed to whatever feed you intend feeding at the fairs. Never feed something at home and then change suddenly (when you get away) to feed which they are not accustomed to. While green feed makes a wonderful bloom on your sheep, it is not always convenient to get it away from home, so it is getting to be a common custom with many shepherds now to use soaked beet pulp as a substitute for green feed, as it can be carried easily, or purchased almost anywhere. This may be mixed with the grain, and is very cooling to the system. Too much is not good, while a reasonable amount works well. Keep your sheep so that they will consume a generous amount of hay twice a day. Occasional feeds of Glauber Salts in the grain is very beneficial. Keep the feet trimmed that the sheep may walk in comfort. Human beings suffer when their shoes do not fit properly, or a sore toe takes all the joy out of walking, likewise imperfect feet on a sheep takes off more flesh than feed will put on.

Handle your sheep in the barn as they will be handled in the show ring so that they will know what to expect when the judge is working on them. Also train them to stand squarely on their legs when you are trimming them, and they will so acquire the habit. It is a mistake to get your sheep too tame, as they are likely to stand carelessly in the show ring. A little "pep" helps a lot in a close decision, and show your sheep all the time they are in the ring - not just while the judge is handling them.

Breed, feed, and cull, and let your show flock be a true example of the breeding flock in your pasture. This is when showing sheep pays dividends.